The distracted dog walker is commonly seen chatting on their mobile phone, wearing headphones or socialising with other people while oblivious to what their dog is doing. They have no idea how their dog is feeling or what is going on in the environment.

This may not sound like a problem to some, but it is something that many people have a problem with, even more so if you have a reactive dog.  Also you should be aware of the Yellow Dog Project. It is an education campaign that lets people in public spaces know that a dog needs space by using a clear visual aid: a yellow lead, collar, ribbon, bandana or vest.

I compare walking a dog to driving a car.  It’s not only about our driving skills, but having to constantly be aware of the driving skills of others – trying to predict what they will do, which rules of the road they will ignore and how distracted they are.  This is especially true in peak traffic times and doing the school pick up, where driving can be a stressful experience.  You really need to concentrate as there are so many more opportunities for things to go wrong.

I understand that we often need to multi task – there simply doesn’t seem to be enough time in our day to accomplish everything we need to, but walking our dogs should not be one of these times.  It can be great enrichment for your pooch and can be an amazing wind down time for you.  As well as the health benefits of a walk for you both and the added bonus of the bonding time.

Some people might say – “but my dog is really friendly, well socialised, gets on well with everyone, is well trained, knows this environment well etc. and I hear that.

But another dog might not be – maybe they need space, are reactive, are not sociable, are recovering from an illness, might be terrified of another dog racing straight towards them chasing a ball thrown from a ball launcher etc.  Also many of my clients and their dogs have had really bad experiences with other dogs and are now very fearful of other dogs even when on a leash.  An off lead dog racing towards them whether it is friendly or not can be a traumatic experience.

If distracted dog walkers have no regard for other dogs or other people, they should at least have regard for their own dogs. Walking your dog should be a time of bonding, of relationship, of seeing the environment through the eyes of your dog, of reinforcing and teaching wanted behaviours, of keeping them safe and protected from the unknown.

Our dogs need us to be focused, to pay attention, to be aware and attentive. 

Our dogs depend on us to advocate for them.

ARE YOU AND YOUR DOG SNAKE READY?
Snakes are a part of everyday life in Australia.  The best protection for your dog is careful management of the dog and the environment.
Don’t ever enter the false sense of security of thinking that your dog has been trained and desensitised  and this is a guarantee.  This training is not aimed at dogs being unsupervised in the backyard or alone whilst you are away.

Total management is your best friend when it comes to snakes & dogs..

STEPS TO GET TO VET EMERGENCY HOSPITAL
* If you see your dog in proximity to a snake (living or dead) - present the animal to Emergency Vet - they can run tests to check for envenomation.
* The vast majority of dogs who are envenomated will survive if presented promptly for care (and given antivenene when appropriate).
* Pet insurance is encouraged (most vets have it for their own animals) - because sometimes bad things can happen to anyone.
* Make sure you take all the dogs with you - not just the one you think is in trouble.

SIGNS OF SNAKE BITE
* SYMPTOMS of possible envenomation - (if you are worried do not hesitate to contact your local vet or local ECC - always call before you go - so they are prepared - or they may redirect you to a Vet Team that can help.).
    * Collapse (sometimes emesis (vomiting will be observed) followed by "apparent" recovery
    * Lethargy.
    * Muscle tremors, shaking and reduced eye blinking.
    * Dilated pupils. (Pupils are larger than normal)
    * Sudden onset of weakness/wobbliness (ataxia)
    * Complete paralysis.
    * Inability to control bladder and bowels.
    * Blood - Irregular bleeding from the nose, bite site , mouth. Blood in urine.

USEFUL INFORMATION:
* The vast majority of the time - the snake/ dog interaction is NOT observed by their humans.
* Occasionally people will see a dead snake in their yard.
* Most of the time snake/ dog interaction is accidental - the dog is not hunting the snake. No training protocol can cover for that - that's the truth.
* The best protection for your dog is careful management of the dog and the environment.
* Short lead ON in areas that are likely to be snake populated (in summer - any water sources).
* Make sure grass around the home is short
* Make access under the house and in the garage and sheds impossible (snakes like cooler spots in hot weather - and will actively seek water when it's dry.
* CLEAR up around the yard.
* Making the environment unwelcoming for snakes is helpful too.
* Have the dog area sparse of garden beds.  
* Allowing a space for snakes outside the dog area will help them gravitate there.
* Provide a water source away from the dog yard so the snakes don't have to come in for a drink.  
* Have the garden beds on one side of the house, the dog play yard on the other side.  
* Check the yard before letting the dog out
* Snakes don't want to meet dogs, so make it very unfriendly to the snake and they'll likely try to avoid the dog.
* Snakes are vulnerable in the open.
* Screens on doors/ windows.(make sure the screens are well fitted) keep them closed)
* Preferably keep dogs indoors when you are not with them.  If this is not possible then Create a snake proof enclosure for your dogs if they are out when you are not supervising. (but still keep the areas within the enclosure clear and check regularly).
* If you have a long haired dog keep their fur slightly long during snake season to create a barrier and therefore decrease the chance of a bite penetrating the skin. Snake fangs are not very long.
* Snakes are habitual and territorial.
* So where ever you have sighted a snake or your dog has found one you should absolutely make it a no go zone.
* Snake venom appears to be more potent in Spring when they are in mating season, coming out of hibernation ?
* Baby and Juvenile snakes are just a deadly.
* Never handle a dead snake, skin, excrement (snake poo) without protective equipment because a fang can still envenemonate.
* Definitely NO doggy doors for either the dog or the snake to use .
* So definitely no water bowls left down outside .
* Know first aid for snake bite .
* Have your elasticated bandages ready in the car and home.
* Apart from that, many dogs (and people) are bitten by snakes because they didn't see the snake and stood on it, etc.
* You may actually hear them hissing, before you see them or come upon them.
* Do Training because it certainly won’t hurt. A dog needs to know basic commands such as recall and leave it!
* No course is going to be a guarantee of the preferred outcome.
* There's a difference between a supervised and an unsupervised dog; and between a dog on a lead and not on a lead.
* Keep your home and yard free of rodents and other snake food sources.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN FINDING OUT MORE ABOUT OBEDIENCE TRAINING AND SNAKE AVOIDANCE TRAINING USE THE CONTACT FORM.