Impulse control, WHAT IS IT?

• It is a crucial skill for any well-behaved and well-adjusted dog.
• It helps them make thoughtful choices, remain focused, and respond to commands promptly.
• The Red Light/Green Light exercise is an effective and engaging way to teach dogs impulse control while building their obedience and self-discipline.

In this blog post, I'll guide you through the steps of this exercise to help your furry friend become a model of self-control.

THE STEPS:
Step 1: Prepare the Environment: Start by attaching their lead to help them stay in place and setting up a comfortable place mat for your dog. The lead allows your dog to have some freedom of movement while preventing them from wandering off during the exercise. This initial setup helps create a controlled and focused space for training.

Step 2: Establish a Distance:  Position yourself across the room from your dog, maintaining a reasonable distance. This distance will vary based on your dog's comfort level and training progress. Make sure you have your dog's attention before proceeding.

Step 3: Cue the Down Command: Gently and clearly ask your dog to lie down on their designated place mat. Use a command like "down" or "drop" or any other cue you've been using during your training sessions. Be patient and wait for your dog to follow the command and settle into a down position.

Step 4: Red Light/Green Light:  Now, it's time to introduce the red light/green light concept. As you stand across the room from your dog, imagine that you have a "red light" and a "green light" in your hands. Your body movement will mimic these lights.

* Green Light: Walk forward slowly and purposefully towards your dog. If your dog maintains the down position without getting up or fidgeting, this is the "green light" to keep moving closer.

* Red Light: If your dog starts to stand up or moves from their down position, immediately stop walking. Freeze in place to create a "red light." Your dog will learn that their movement caused you to halt.

Step 5: Gradual Progression: Continue the exercise by alternating between red light and green light moments based on your dog's behavior. Over time, you can gradually decrease the distance between you and your dog, making the exercise more challenging. The goal is to teach your dog that their actions directly influence your movement and pace.

New Puppy! Such an exiting time!
Introducing a puppy into your life is a special and exciting time – there are many crucial things to be aware of in these early days, including the importance of exercise. Not only is exercising your puppy beneficial for their health and behavioral development – it’s a great opportunity for your puppy to socialise with other friendly puppies, dogs and people too.

It is possible for us to get lost in the excitement and forget that puppies are just babies – and like babies, puppies have limited physical abilities while they’re still developing. So, it’s just as important to ease your puppy into all things, including exercise

Puppy Bones
When you get your 8/10 week old puppies, please keep this image in mind. Their bones do not even touch yet. They plod around so cutely with big floppy paws and wobbly movement because their joints are entirely made up of muscle, tendons, ligaments with skin covering. Nothing is fitting tightly together or has a true socket yet.

When you run them excessively or don't restrict their exercise to stop them from overdoing it during this period you don't give them a chance to grow properly. Every big jump or excited bouncing run causes impacts between the bones. In reasonable amounts this is not problematic and is the normal wear and tear that every animal will engage in.

But when you're letting puppy jump up and down off the lounge or bed, take them for long walks/hikes, you are damaging that forming joint. When you let the puppy scramble on tile with no traction you are damaging the joint.

How long can I walk my puppy?

• Allow your puppy to choose the speed and take plenty of breaks for sniffing.  Avoid trying to pull your puppy!. If you must walk on pavement, keep walks shorter. Walks on grass or dirt are easier on your puppies growing bones than pavement.
• An 8 week old puppy can walk 5-10 minutes. If they are tired and don't want to walk then carry them home.
• A 12 week old puppy can walk about 15-20 minutes.
• A 16 week old puppy (4 months) can mostly do a 30 minute meandering walk.
• At 6-7 months if the puppy is coping you can increase the time to 45-60 minutes as your.

Key points:

• If your puppy is not yet fully vaccinated then you can still take them out.  Carry them or invest in a dog stroller if you want to take them to public areas.
• At 12 months small dogs will become physically mature.
• 18-24 months larger dogs will become physically mature.
• An injured growth plate can cause the bone to stop growing early. This can result in lifelong orthopedic problems.
• Free Run Instead. The best exercise for puppies is safely free running. Let your puppy choose their own adventure and play at their own pace.
• If you have access to a fenced yard, allow your pup to wander freely, choosing their speed and direction. Stay with them! They will naturally regulate their activity, going fast when they want to and slowing down when they get tired.
• If you don’t have a fenced yard, let your pup play on a long line of around 15 feet for young puppies in a safe space. Hold the end of the line while they play, keeping it slack as much as possible.
• Hold off true hikes or long purposeful walks on pavement until your puppy is physically matured.
• When walking in grass make sure to check their paws for bindi and grass seeds when you finish the walk.
• Don't walk in the heat of the day or when the pavement is too hot.
• Make sure you provide plenty of clean drinking water.
• Longer Walks  and participating in active sports Will Come

It can be tempting to take your puppy for a long walk to wear them out but resist the urge. Instead, treasure these meandering strolls  while their body grows and matures. Try to see the world through your puppy’s eyes and enjoy their antics as they zigzag around the yard and explores their world. Everything will be so new and exciting for them at this age. Let them learn about the world.  

Once grown - around 12-18 months depending on their breed, you will have the rest of their life to spend playing and engaging in higher impact exercise. So keep it calm while they're still little baby puppies and give the gift that can only be given once.

You only get the chance to grow them once. A well built body is something that comes from excellent breeding and a great upbringing-BOTH, not just one.

What is it?:
The Yellow Dog Project is an education campaign that lets people in public spaces know that a dog needs space by using a clear visual aid: a yellow lead, collar, ribbon, bandana or vest.

This acts as a quick and easy guide to gauging a dog’s comfort level at a distance lets you know to proceed with caution. Through communicating the need for space, the Yellow Dog Project helps prevent dogs being triggered by unpredictable encounters that cause panic or stress and can often undermine the careful training and rehabilitation strategies guardians have put in place.

The Yellow Dog Project is not regulated by animal management or animal care Acts or legislation. It does not replace appropriate training, and does not exempt guardians from taking responsibility for their dog’s behaviour. It is important guardians with dogs that need space choose exercise routines that reflect their dog’s ability to cope in public spaces; a yellow bandana won’t protect a dog if they’re being walked through a busy dog park or off lead space. It is simply an educational campaign that functions to help others understand whether a dog needs extra space from a distance and to encourage them to take reasonable steps to avoid approaching where possible.

How does it work?:
“Give me space!”
The Yellow Dog Project is a community awareness initiative that encourages dog guardians to use something yellow to inform others their dog needs extra space and to avoid approaching. If you see a dog wearing a yellow lead, collar, bandana or vest, they need extra space away from you or your dog. Even if you know a lot about dogs and dog behaviour, or dogs generally love you, it’s best to provide that dog the space they need so their guardian can ensure they complete their walk or training safely. Any interactions with that dog should be discussed with their guardian first.
*Photo directly below: Monty is an older man who dislikes being jumped on by overly enthusiastic puppies and dogs (Image courtesy of Kate Denman).

Why would a dog need space?
There are lots of reasons why dogs might need to wear yellow.
They could be:
* too young or too old to play
* recovering from surgery or injury
* blind or hearing impaired and easily startled
* in pet dog manners or more serious assistance/therapy dog training
* in heat or sick (but the guardian is still trying to ensure they get some mental enrichment on a quick short walk)
* incredibly shy or nervous generally
* recovering from a traumatic experience (e.g. dog attack) that has lead them to distrust others in public spaces
* Under-socialised due to COVID, being relinquished or rescued young, or other experience beyond their (and their current guardian’s) control
* They prefer to be left alone (not all dogs are social butterflies, and that’s okay)
The guardian might also prefer to not be approached by unfamiliar dogs or strangers in public settings too.

How did it start?
The idea originated internationally, under the guidance of world-renowned dog trainer Terry Ryan (Legacy Canine) who introduced yellow ribbons/ bandanas in her training classes as a clear signal for dogs that need space.

Through the efforts of Australian dog trainer and behaviour enthusiast Pat Robards, the idea was borrowed with permission and introduced to Australian dog clubs in the early 2000s.

The project gained traction and Norway dog behaviourist, Mimmi Engh, borrowed it for their dog training classes for use with sensitive dogs.

Eva Oliversson launched the first official program, International Gulahund™ Yellowdog, in Sweden in 2012
Resources:  YellowDog Australia 

Lili Chin has also designed this infographic below to help to educate people about the Yellow Dog Project.

The distracted dog walker is commonly seen chatting on their mobile phone, wearing headphones or socialising with other people while oblivious to what their dog is doing. They have no idea how their dog is feeling or what is going on in the environment.

This may not sound like a problem to some, but it is something that many people have a problem with, even more so if you have a reactive dog.  Also you should be aware of the Yellow Dog Project. It is an education campaign that lets people in public spaces know that a dog needs space by using a clear visual aid: a yellow lead, collar, ribbon, bandana or vest.

I compare walking a dog to driving a car.  It’s not only about our driving skills, but having to constantly be aware of the driving skills of others – trying to predict what they will do, which rules of the road they will ignore and how distracted they are.  This is especially true in peak traffic times and doing the school pick up, where driving can be a stressful experience.  You really need to concentrate as there are so many more opportunities for things to go wrong.

I understand that we often need to multi task – there simply doesn’t seem to be enough time in our day to accomplish everything we need to, but walking our dogs should not be one of these times.  It can be great enrichment for your pooch and can be an amazing wind down time for you.  As well as the health benefits of a walk for you both and the added bonus of the bonding time.

Some people might say – “but my dog is really friendly, well socialised, gets on well with everyone, is well trained, knows this environment well etc. and I hear that.

But another dog might not be – maybe they need space, are reactive, are not sociable, are recovering from an illness, might be terrified of another dog racing straight towards them chasing a ball thrown from a ball launcher etc.  Also many of my clients and their dogs have had really bad experiences with other dogs and are now very fearful of other dogs even when on a leash.  An off lead dog racing towards them whether it is friendly or not can be a traumatic experience.

If distracted dog walkers have no regard for other dogs or other people, they should at least have regard for their own dogs. Walking your dog should be a time of bonding, of relationship, of seeing the environment through the eyes of your dog, of reinforcing and teaching wanted behaviours, of keeping them safe and protected from the unknown.

Our dogs need us to be focused, to pay attention, to be aware and attentive. 

Our dogs depend on us to advocate for them.

ARE YOU AND YOUR DOG SNAKE READY?
Snakes are a part of everyday life in Australia.  The best protection for your dog is careful management of the dog and the environment.
Don’t ever enter the false sense of security of thinking that your dog has been trained and desensitised  and this is a guarantee.  This training is not aimed at dogs being unsupervised in the backyard or alone whilst you are away.

Total management is your best friend when it comes to snakes & dogs..

STEPS TO GET TO VET EMERGENCY HOSPITAL
* If you see your dog in proximity to a snake (living or dead) - present the animal to Emergency Vet - they can run tests to check for envenomation.
* The vast majority of dogs who are envenomated will survive if presented promptly for care (and given antivenene when appropriate).
* Pet insurance is encouraged (most vets have it for their own animals) - because sometimes bad things can happen to anyone.
* Make sure you take all the dogs with you - not just the one you think is in trouble.

SIGNS OF SNAKE BITE
* SYMPTOMS of possible envenomation - (if you are worried do not hesitate to contact your local vet or local ECC - always call before you go - so they are prepared - or they may redirect you to a Vet Team that can help.).
    * Collapse (sometimes emesis (vomiting will be observed) followed by "apparent" recovery
    * Lethargy.
    * Muscle tremors, shaking and reduced eye blinking.
    * Dilated pupils. (Pupils are larger than normal)
    * Sudden onset of weakness/wobbliness (ataxia)
    * Complete paralysis.
    * Inability to control bladder and bowels.
    * Blood - Irregular bleeding from the nose, bite site , mouth. Blood in urine.

USEFUL INFORMATION:
* The vast majority of the time - the snake/ dog interaction is NOT observed by their humans.
* Occasionally people will see a dead snake in their yard.
* Most of the time snake/ dog interaction is accidental - the dog is not hunting the snake. No training protocol can cover for that - that's the truth.
* The best protection for your dog is careful management of the dog and the environment.
* Short lead ON in areas that are likely to be snake populated (in summer - any water sources).
* Make sure grass around the home is short
* Make access under the house and in the garage and sheds impossible (snakes like cooler spots in hot weather - and will actively seek water when it's dry.
* CLEAR up around the yard.
* Making the environment unwelcoming for snakes is helpful too.
* Have the dog area sparse of garden beds.  
* Allowing a space for snakes outside the dog area will help them gravitate there.
* Provide a water source away from the dog yard so the snakes don't have to come in for a drink.  
* Have the garden beds on one side of the house, the dog play yard on the other side.  
* Check the yard before letting the dog out
* Snakes don't want to meet dogs, so make it very unfriendly to the snake and they'll likely try to avoid the dog.
* Snakes are vulnerable in the open.
* Screens on doors/ windows.(make sure the screens are well fitted) keep them closed)
* Preferably keep dogs indoors when you are not with them.  If this is not possible then Create a snake proof enclosure for your dogs if they are out when you are not supervising. (but still keep the areas within the enclosure clear and check regularly).
* If you have a long haired dog keep their fur slightly long during snake season to create a barrier and therefore decrease the chance of a bite penetrating the skin. Snake fangs are not very long.
* Snakes are habitual and territorial.
* So where ever you have sighted a snake or your dog has found one you should absolutely make it a no go zone.
* Snake venom appears to be more potent in Spring when they are in mating season, coming out of hibernation ?
* Baby and Juvenile snakes are just a deadly.
* Never handle a dead snake, skin, excrement (snake poo) without protective equipment because a fang can still envenemonate.
* Definitely NO doggy doors for either the dog or the snake to use .
* So definitely no water bowls left down outside .
* Know first aid for snake bite .
* Have your elasticated bandages ready in the car and home.
* Apart from that, many dogs (and people) are bitten by snakes because they didn't see the snake and stood on it, etc.
* You may actually hear them hissing, before you see them or come upon them.
* Do Training because it certainly won’t hurt. A dog needs to know basic commands such as recall and leave it!
* No course is going to be a guarantee of the preferred outcome.
* There's a difference between a supervised and an unsupervised dog; and between a dog on a lead and not on a lead.
* Keep your home and yard free of rodents and other snake food sources.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN FINDING OUT MORE ABOUT OBEDIENCE TRAINING AND SNAKE AVOIDANCE TRAINING USE THE CONTACT FORM.

Replacement Behaviours

A replacement behavior is what you teach your dog to do instead of the problem behavior.

The key to making this work is when replacement behavior becomes a more efficient or more effective way for the dog to earn the functional reward than the original problem behavior(s).



Let’s go to the example of the dog who rushes across the room, barks, and scratches the door when you reach for your keys or their leash. If you clip on the leash and open the door to let the dog out after they do all of that, you are providing them a functional reward (the fun outing) for this behavior and you will have to repaint your door much more often.

If that has happened with your dog, your best strategy is to start requiring them to sit before you clip the leash on. If the dog is bouncing around, simply set down the leash and patiently, silently refuse to clip the leash to the collar until they sit. Sitting becomes the replacement behavior for jumping and acting crazy because you have made going for a walk contingent upon polite behavior: your dog gets to go on a walk if, and only if, they are calm.

Making the functional reward of walks and car rides contingent upon sitting will quickly calm down the situation at your door.

Still having trouble?  then book a private session and we will come and step you through it because that's what we do.

How do I Socialise my Puppy Correctly?
You’ve probably heard from neighbours, friends and family that you need to socialise your puppy. This is good advice, however, you have to proceed with caution. Puppy socialisation is often misunderstood and if done incorrectly, you could do more harm than good! Angela from Positive Pooch Solutions explains when and how to socialise your puppy using positive methods.

A socialised dog is all the more an enjoyable companion. Your canine friend will be welcome in far more places, environments, and situations with people and other dogs if they are socialised and taught basic manners.

Why socialise your puppy using positive methods?
A well-socialised dog is comfortable in all situations in our modern daily life. The most important thing you can do for a puppy is to introduce them to the world in a positive way by using proven techniques that reinforce calm behaviour. Socialisation using positive methods will set your puppy up for success and they will develop into a well-adjusted dog for life.

You do this by providing your puppy with as many as possible positive experiences with people, new things and other animals while making sure you protect them from negative experiences at all times.
 
When to socialise your puppy?
The sooner you start the better! Behaviourists, veterinarians and trainers do not recommend waiting until your puppy has had all of its’ shots. You have a much greater chance of developing severe behaviour problems than your puppy getting sick. Your puppy should be protected from Parvo and other diseases though, before going out and about in strange places.

The facts are that the risk of a dog being surrendered because of a behaviour problem is far greater than the risks of your pup contracting a disease.

You’ll need to avoid public places until your pup has been fully vaccinated but you can start to socialise your puppy using positive methods from the time they are brought home. Carry them in your arms (or try a pack or baby carrier, or a pet buggy) or just sit in the car in a parking lot and allow them to get used to noises, smells and seeing lots of people, animals, vehicles, bikes, skateboarders etc. Feed your puppy treats for being calm. Always start from a distance and if your puppy is showing signs of being anxious, don’t go closer until they calm down. You should watch your pup’s body language for signs of stress such as lip licking, lowered head and body posture, ears back, tail tucked, looking away, a shake off, sigh, yawn. If you see these signs your puppy is saying it is not okay. Try adding more distance. Also If your dog is shy, worried, or overly excited, leave the situation and work with a positive training professional who can help both of you. If your dog is happy, comfortable and having a blast, you’re doing a great job of socialising them.

Angela’s tips on how to socialise your dog using positive methods to...

Noises
• Prevent noise phobia, (eg. fear of thunder – boom = treat), by feeding your puppy a treat every time the noise happens.
• Introduce slowly from a distance to frightening sounds such as the vacuum, lawn mower, garbage truck, hair dryer etc.
• Gently exposing your puppy to different noises will help build their resilience and cope later.
• Introduce the sounds at their own pace and only from a distance they are comfortable.
• Never force your dog at any time!
• Avoid frightening situations, such as fireworks, unless you are there to turn it positive.
People
• Introduce your dog to all kinds of people by letting your puppy approach and at their own pace, only if and when they wants to.
• Associate new people with wonderful things such as treats and toys.
• Ensure puppies are gently and positively exposed to different people.
• People should ask before approaching.
• Learn to read and check your dog’s body language during interactions with adults and kids.  If your puppy is not comfortable then don't let them approach just yet.
• Feed your puppy treats during these interactions.

Other Animals
• Always check that the other animal is friendly and tolerant of dogs before you let your dog approach (don’t take the other owner’s word for it! Check both dog’s body language first and if there is a doubt, then don’t introduce them)
• Teach your dog how to act politely around other animals by rewarding for good behaviour. Redirect your puppy to focus on something else like food, a food puzzle or toy if he becomes pushy or overly excited
• If your dog doesn’t want to play with dogs (unfamiliar or known), that’s okay!
• Don’t ever force interaction between your puppy and another dog or another animal like a cat.
• Supervise every interaction and intervene gently if the play between your puppy and the other puppy becomes one-sided or too much for the puppy.
• Find other dogs that are fully vaccinated.

Things
• Introduce your puppy to lots of surfaces – gravel, tile, concrete, carpet, plastic, rubber, grass, snow, and sand etc
• Take rides in a car, boat, train, bus, elevator.
• Introduce different objects to them eg. toys
• Get them used to a car harness and to walk on a lead
• Teach your puppy to be comfortable with gentle handling by praising and rewarding them with treats for being calm and allowing you to handle them. A must for tick checks, vet checks, grooming, ear cleaning, nail clipping, teeth cleaning – visit the vet and the groomer just for treats and petting to start.
 

WHY USE A BRIDGE OR REINFORCER?
WHAT IS THAT YOU ASK?
To help to mark the moment the desired behaviour occurs.  I call it a bridge.  The behaviour occurs ——>  your reinforce it ———>  then comes a reward.

Clicker Training, or operant conditioned training, is based on the concept that the consequences of a behaviour (the event that immediately follows it) determine whether or not that behaviour is repeated.

For example if I ask you to come here and then I hit you, are you likely to repeat the behaviour?

What if I ask you to come up here and give you $5?

The same concept applies to dogs. Ask the dog to do something, and then yell at it, it is less likely to come next time you call. However, if you reward the dog using praise, by feeding it or playing with their favourite toy, it is more likely to come next time.

Clicker training is the use of positive reinforcement to teach your dog desirable behaviours. We use a “clicker” primarily because it is unemotional – it rewards the dog in the same way every time, without letting frustration colour its tone.

Clicker Training or, more correctly, operant conditioning, is found in many areas of animal training. The most common of these is Dolphin Training. Can you imagine trying to “compel” a Dolphin to jump out of the water and touch a ball? I can’t!
If you doubt the effectiveness of Clicker Training ?

Some other examples that you may have seen:  
Ever watched Taronga Zoo on TV?  The Zoo trainers condition the animals to have procedures performed.  They do blood draws on Chimpanzee, take ultrasounds of Rhino to check for pregnancy and to monitor the baby until it’s birth. They train  animals to open their mouth for dental checks and for cleaning.  

Many many many more uses.

 
WHAT ARE THEY IN POOCH TRAINING?
 
So, now You have heard about using clickers, verbal markers like ‘YES’, treats, toys and games in dog training. When used to strengthen behaviours we want to see by definition those are all reinforcers because a reinforcer is a consequence that increases the rate of behaviour.
 
But, do you know the difference between secondary (also known as conditioned) and primary (also known as unconditioned) reinforcers?
 
Understanding Reinforcers
A primary reinforcer is: something that automatically causes an animal to increase the rate of behaviour. Its value does not need to be learned and is not dependent on other reinforcers. Food, water, sleep, and sex are examples because they fulfill biological needs for survival. When you are giving your dog a piece of food to increase the frequency of a behaviour, you are using a primary reinforcer.
 
A secondary reinforcer is: something that acquires its value after repeated associations with primary reinforcers. The word ‘YES’ or sound of a click are both secondary reinforcers. When presented to a learner without any prior history of hearing them, those sounds do not have meaning. They come to elicit an accelerated heart rate, alertness, salivation or other response after repetitions of those sounds coming just before the presentation of other valued stimulus.
 
It’s important to understand that timing matters. The less time there is between two stimulus, or a behaviour and a consequence, the quicker and easier it is for the learner to build a relationship between those two. In other words, after you click or say YES, that treat should be delivered quickly afterwards.
 
Okay, so another logical question to ask then is if those secondary reinforcers can eventually be used without being paired with another reinforcer. The answer is yes…at least some of the time. If you stop pairing a secondary reinforcer with another reinforcer all together, eventually it may come to lose value.
 
But here is the awesome thing. You can (and should) continually create new reinforcers by pairing different valued stimulus together. The more variety you have to choose from in reinforcers, the more fun and enriching you make the lesson for your student.